• Some say 7500-Mile Oil Changes are right for today's cars.  What's your advice?  
   
• What services does my vehicle need to keep it healthy?  
   
• What weight oil should I use and how often should I change it?
   
• How do I install my Sirius Satellite Radio antenna and how do I get the best audio?
   
• What octane gas is right for my car?
   
• Is it best to let my car idle while waiting in line (like at a bank, at a railroad crossing, or at a long traffic light) or turn it off?
   
• Should I buy an extended warranty?
   
• How do I choose a service shop?
   
• What should I do when my “check engine” light comes on?
   
• What’s the proper tire pressure for my car?
   
• Should I buy a hybrid?
   
• Do I have to take my car back to the dealer for maintenance to preserve its factory warranty?
   
• I have a spot on my garage floor under my car. How can I tell what’s leaking?
   

A – To the 7,500-mile oil change question/myth, I say a resounding, "No way." The Facts:

1. 7500-mile oil changes allow multiple layers or debris to build inside an engine over time, causing increasing amounts of contamination to each new batch of oil. The antidote? “Clean Oil Practices” embraced by, to name just two, the Department of Defense for our military vehicles that must be ready to go anytime and under any condition...and by Noria, the best-practices body for manufacturing plants that incorporate large expensive machinery.

2. 7500-mile oil changes allow unseen, unhealthy wear trends of a vehicle's mechanical components to go untended and prohibit in-time inspections of a vehicle's coolant system, brake fluid, transmission fluid and power steering fluid--all susceptible to degradation.

3. 7500-mile oil changes allow excessive "polish wear" inside engines, ultimately shortening engine life. According to numerous research chemists with the Department of Defense, as well as Dr. Robert Kauffman of University of Dayton Research Institute, polish wear happens when particles smaller than 20 microns are allowed to travel through an engine over an extended length of time/miles. Rod, main and cam bearings wear mostly from 10-15 micron-sized particles that are not captured by any standard-production oil filter on the market.

4. 7500-mile oil changes allow lower-priced oil filters (all too often used in $19.95 "loss leader" promotions by too many service shops across the US) to deteriorate and fill with debris. When these filters clog or simply age, they tend to go into bypass mode during cold starts, releasing damaging previously filtered particles. Generally, oil filters catch 30 micron or higher-sized particles; but remember, engine wear is caused by 10-15 micron particles. One of the best filters on the market is the Wix--at 19 microns. Also, the NAPA Gold filter (made by Wix) does a great job. These filters have 67 pleats of filtration media, whereas other brand names have less than 40. And Purolator's PureONE is a top ranked filter in SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to keep engines clean. All filter manufacturers provide specs upon request--guaranteed. Just ask.

5. For low annual mileage vehicles, a 7500-mile oil change may mean once a year. Leaving “stagnating” oil inside any engine for extended periods of time, regardless of mileage, leads to etching of metal components from corrosion.

6. Water intrusion caused by condensation is one of the worst enemies oil has. All engines create condensation. And that doesn’t take 7500 miles.

7. 7500-mile oil changes promote increased fuel and carbon deposits, causing damage to engines.

8. 7500-mile oil changes promote neglect of 5K-mile tire rotations, thereby shortening tire life considerably and ultimately lowering MPG.

So why do car makers thump the 7500-mile oil change drum? Think about this. Car makers are in the business of selling cars. Isn’t being given permission for “proactive neglect” awfully (literally) attractive to buyers? Just buy your new car & drive it without having to do anything for 7500 miles. Then trade it and buy a new car. Consumers keeping their vehicles in tip top condition and keeping them longer is not what drives OEMs (original equipment manufacturers, aka car makers).

Maintenance schedules (created by car makers & passed on by their franchised dealers) only address "minimum maintenance requirements" in order to maintain factory warranty--not necessarily what's best for any vehicle's specific environment and/or driving conditions and certainly not what each location might dictate. This is no secret and certainly not new information. Those in automotive repair and service will tell you that some 50%+ of all repairs could have been avoided by routine services. You smell power steering fluid at 50K miles, and I won’t have to convince you of anything. Your nose will know in one whiff.

Just the thought of that tempts me to step up on another of my soap boxes, constructed of building blocks garnered in 45 years of service in the automotive industry. Our service industry is addicted to using the phrase "Preventive Maintenance." Ironically, too many consumers who see themselves as good soldiers of the PM movement view the 3K-mile oil change as "all they have to do to maintain their cars." That is wrong, wrong, wrong. The automobile has other moving, and therefore wear-susceptible, parts that need attention.

The costs of changing vehicles’ “other fluids,” rotating tires and changing air, fuel filters & passenger cabin filters in a timely fashion saves dollars and adds life to the entire vehicle, not to mention the fun & safety factors. And when it's time to trade, an automobile with a verifiable service history makes it a "certified" car. And certified cars are worth more money at trade-in. Check any web site that offers this information (e.g., NADA, Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, etc).

We started with oil, and that’s where we’ll end. The price paid for oil changes is nominal--even at $50--when one considers the price of repairs. Oil oxidation starts immediately when oil reaches operating temperature--long before 7500 miles. And in Europe where gas prices are $8+, more than 50% of all car owners use synthetic oil. Unbelievable when you think about it. Not that they do...but that we don’t. I researched, chose, use in my own vehicles & recommend to my service customers locally and my listeners internationally) Royal Purple because its additive package outperforms other synthetic oils.

Bottom line:

For every dollar spent in maintaining a vehicle, you’ll save Dollars in repairs. I can absolutely verify this because I experience it every day in Car Clinic Service/Pre-Repair®, celebrating its 37th year and serving tens of thousands of vehicles and their owners. An article in Consumer Reports claims that a well-maintained vehicle driven 200K miles would net an owner some $30K. I’m not sure I’d want to keep a car for 15 years today because that’s equal to 50 yesteryears in terms of technology, safety and fun factor, but I do know I would not let 7500 miles click over on the odometer of any car I own without service. Enough said...until next time.

A – If my 20 years of using BG products in my personal vehicles, my service shop vehicles and in my customers' vehicles is any indication J, I can strongly recommend that you have these components checked...for quality (condition) of fluid as well as for quantity (properly fill levels).

Untended, these can be murder on your vehicle.  That's why we call 'em the 10 Most Wanted Car Killers:

Fuel/Air Induction Carbon
Lubrication & Fuel Oxidation
Diesel Injection Clogging
Cooling System Scale
Transmission Sludge
Drive Line Abrasion
Power Steering Debris
Brake Fluid Moisture Contamination
Climate Control Mold
Battery Corrosion

For a complete suite of Q&A's and caller testimonials (in print and in audio) about how to arrest the Car Killers, click here and decide for yourself.
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Q - What weight oil should I use and how often should I change it?

A – Newsletters: “Texas Tea: All About Gas and Oil”; “Death by Gas”

First, the oils weigh in from skinny to fat: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 20W-50. The small first number represents the oil’s flowability at low temperatures (hence the “W,” which means Winter). The larger second number indicates the oil’s flowability at high temperatures. Because today’s engines have very tight tolerances (not much space between moving parts)--unless you have a diesel engine or farm vehicle--I recommend the “skinniest” oil for quickest, most effective lubrication.

The various weights of oil can be found in both mineral oil & synthetic options. Unlike mineral oil whose hydrocarbon chains are of differing lengths, synthetic oil’s chains are uniform, and performance enhancers are added to the mix. So, mineral oil & filter should be changed every 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Synthetic oil can last 10,000 miles or 10 months, whichever comes first, with this caveat: Filter must be changed at 5,000 miles or 5 months; then the engine “topped-off” to full. I use & recommend Royal Purple high-performance oil and a WIX filter.

A – Proper installation is key to best performance and takes two general steps: 1) Properly mounting the antenna in the correct location; and 2) Routing the cable from the antenna to the Sirius radio. Click here for all the details by vehicle body type.

For tips on which connection (wireless or direct) that produces the optimum audio for your automotive environment, click here.
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Q - What octane gas is right for my car?

A – Newsletter: “Texas Tea: All About Gas and Oil”

I have 3 answers for you!

1. Preliminary guideline is in owner’s manual. If that happens to be low octane, use it. Never, ever “treat” your low-octane engine to a high-octane fuel. It’s like treating a baby to a filet mignon. Your engine, like the baby, simply cannot digest it.

2. However, if it’s anything else, I recommend mid-grade if: 1) you’re a conservative driver; 2) you hear no pinging. Because the on-board computer typically adjusts for grade, you can usually pump a lower octane without penalty.

3. However… if you’re a hard-charging, aggressive driver and/or you hear a ping or knock, dig into your pocket & go back to the higher, more expensive octane.

A – If stopped longer than 30 seconds at a bank line or railroad crossing, turn engine off … but not a traffic light. The situation may change more quickly than you can safely adapt.

A – Newsletter: “Good, Bad or Just Plain Ugly”

Ask questions of the warranty company:

1. How is “pay” & “co-pay” determined? Pay, of course, is what the warranty company doles out; co-pay comes from your pocket – in addition to the “deductible.”

2. Are all components covered under the warranty, including computers, electronic modules & air conditioning?

3. Will I be forced to go to a particular shop (like an HMO) or will I be able to choose my provider?

4. What if there’s a discrepancy between the quality cost of repair at “my” shop versus “your” shop?

A – To narrow the choices, check www.asashop.org and www.bgfindashop.com. Then make your choice based on:

1. Reputation: honesty, trustworthy, consistent performance over time

2. Equipped: technology & trained technicians

3. Appearance: kept grounds, clean facility (waiting room & common areas), professionally dressed & groomed staff

4. Can-Do Attitude: courteous & responsive

5. Proactive Communication: service manager and advisor keep you informed

6. Delivery & Follow-Up: “It’s Not Fixed Until You Say It’s Fixed” philosophy

A – There are 2 different “check-engine” lights: one that indicates lost oil pressure or overheated engine temperature; the other that reflects an emissions problem. If the icon for pressure/overheat appears, pull over immediately but safely. With regard to the emissions variety, make an appointment now at your service shop. Though the latter situation is much preferable to the former, both are going to cost you $ which could probably have been prevented by servicing your vehicle regularly.

A – Use the tire pressure listed on the car maker’s spec label located on the door jamb vs. the pressure shown on the tire’s sidewall. The sidewall number indicates the DOT (Department of Transportation) specs that reflect maximum pressure at full load vs. optimum pressure on the door jamb or in the owner’s manual.

A – Newsletter: “To Hybrid or Not to Hybrid”

Hybrids house two kinds of power sources: usually a gasoline engine (although some car makers are substituting a diesel engine) and an electric motor, designed to share the workload under the hood. To be considered in your buying decision:

-- MPG. Though the miles per gallon of a hybrid is typically much greater than a gasoline or diesel engine, especially in town, don’t rely on the “published” MPG that was established in “lab” conditions vs. real-world driving. Take an overnight test drive & determine MPG for yourself.

-- Technology. It’s still new and design problems may emerge.

-- Industry Infrastructure. Are service shops equipped / technicians trained to maintain this new technology?

-- Ride. Do you like the silent type, or prefer your engine to “talk back” to you every once in a while?

A – No. Check out the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act. As long as parts (including oil, filter, fluids, belts, etc.) meet or exceed the car manufacturer’s specifications, you may have the service performed by any qualified service professional.

A – It depends on the color:

Lime green: coolant. Check your radiator.

Smoky black: oil leaks. Could be engine, differential or power steering.

Pomegranate or brownish red: transmission fluid. Check for level & leaks.

Crystal clear: could be harmless condensation or your brake fluid's leaking. Don’t risk it…have a tech check it out.

To make sure your car's "in the pink," catch these fluids on a newspaper for your mechanic to evaluate!